A new wholesale partner asked us last week why our deposit is 50 percent and not 20 percent. The answer is not profit. It is the moment the order becomes non-refundable. At 50 percent, we have already purchased the center stone and poured the alloy. At 20 percent, we are still in consultation and can walk away. The deposit number is a line in the sand that marks when the atelier has committed real cost. This piece is the deposit policy we use, and the regulatory reasoning behind it.
What a bespoke deposit actually covers
A bespoke commission has three cost layers. Stone sourcing is the first: once we purchase a loose diamond or a colored stone to the customer's spec, that stone is bought. We cannot return it. Alloy and casting is the second: the gold or platinum is poured to the design, and the scrap has to be refined. Labor is the third: CAD, wax, bench setting and finishing. The deposit is structured so that if the customer cancels at any point after casting, the atelier has already recovered the stone and metal costs. The FTC Jewelry Guides require that custom orders be described accurately at sale, and the consumer-protection baseline in most US states treats a custom-order deposit as non-refundable once the work has started, provided the policy was disclosed in writing before payment.
The standard deposit structure we use
50 percent deposit at order confirmation. This releases the stone purchase and the CAD work. The customer gets a CAD rendering within 7 to 10 days. 25 percent due at CAD approval, before the wax print. 25 percent balance at delivery, before shipping. Total three payments. The deposit is refundable in full up to the moment the CAD is approved. After CAD approval, the stone and alloy are committed and the deposit becomes non-refundable, though we will apply it to a redesign within 90 days if the customer changes their mind.
What wholesale buyers should put in their own order form
Three sentences protect every atelier. One: the deposit is non-refundable after CAD approval. Two: two CAD revision rounds are included; further rounds are quoted separately. Three: custom orders ship FOB our atelier, and transit insurance is the buyer's to arrange. We see too many retail partners skip the first sentence and end up mediating between an upset customer and a bench that has already poured the gold. For the broader pricing structure, see deposit and balance terms, the line-by-line cost breakdown in what is in the price, and the variables that move the quote in quote variables explained. If the customer is comparing against off-the-shelf pricing, how much bespoke costs sets the baseline.
Wholesale buyers: we accept 50 percent deposits by bank transfer, T/T or credit card (card carries a 2.9 percent fee). Trade accounts with 6-month history can split the deposit over two invoices. Refunds before CAD approval process in 5 to 7 business days.
One edge case we handle every quarter: the customer pays the deposit, then asks to switch the center stone two weeks later. If the original stone has not yet been sourced, we apply the deposit to the new stone with no fee. If the stone has been purchased but not yet set, we restock it at wholesale and deduct a 10 percent restocking fee, which covers the broker's cut. If the stone is already set, the original purchase stands and the upgrade is quoted as a separate reset. We put these three tiers in the order form so the customer sees the cost of changing her mind before she commits.
Why is the deposit 50 percent and not 20 percent?
Because the center stone is typically 40 to 60 percent of the total order cost. A 50 percent deposit lets us buy the stone without fronting the cost. A 20 percent deposit would leave the atelier financing the stone purchase, which we do not do.
Is the deposit refundable?
In full up to CAD approval. After CAD approval, it is non-refundable but transferable to a redesign within 90 days. This is written into every order form.
What happens if the stone we sourced is not what the customer expected?
We send high-resolution photos and a short video before CAD approval. If the customer rejects the stone, we source another one at no extra deposit, but the design timeline shifts by 7 to 10 days.
Do you hold the deposit if the customer delays approving the CAD?
We hold the CAD render for 14 days. After that, we send two reminders. If there is no response in 30 days, we cancel the order and refund the deposit minus the stone sourcing fee, which is capped at 15 percent of the deposit.
Can I pay the full amount up front for a discount?
Yes, and most trade accounts do. Full payment up front earns a 3 percent discount on the total order, because it removes the invoice chasing and lets us source the stone immediately.
