Napkin drawings are the start of at least one in three pendant commissions. A woman sketched a leaf on a coffee receipt and wanted it to hold a tiny sapphire she had bought on a trip to Lake Louise. The sketch was charming; it was also 60 mm long, which would have hung like a teaspoon. The job of the wax stage is to shrink, balance, and weight that idea until it lies flat on the collarbone and the bail actually fits the chain.
Why the sketch stage is about proportions, not beauty
We draw the pendant at 1:1 scale on a printout of the client's neckline. A pendant that reads as dainty at 50 mm reads as heavy on a small frame. The rule of thumb we use: the pendant body should be no longer than the width of the collarbone, and the total drop including the bail should sit inside the hollow at the base of the throat. We link this with our wider notes on how a custom piece moves from sketch to setting, because pendants follow the same gates as rings, just hung vertically.
The wax model is where the client actually decides
After two pencil rounds, we carve a wax or print a resin model at final size. This is the moment most clients change their mind, and that is the point. They hold the weight, look at the bail from the side, and notice that a leaf with a 3 mm stem will not thread a 2 mm chain. We adjust the wax, not the gold. Carving wax is cheap and reversible; re-casting gold is neither. Our previous note on the wax-to-casting maker's journey covers the hands-on side in more detail.
Bail design is the most overlooked detail
A bail has to do three jobs: thread the chain, sit flush against the chest, and not flop sideways. A closed bale that is only 4 mm long forces the pendant to dangle vertically and never rotate flat. We prefer an open bail with a 3.5 mm internal gap and a built-in strengthening rib, which keeps the pendant sitting straight on both fine box chains and heavier rope chains. For clients who want a hidden detail, the bail interior is also the right place for a discreet date or initials, away from prying eyes. If you are weighing what to bring to the meeting, our consultation checklist covers reference photos and chain measurements.
Wall thickness and stone seats
A cast pendant wall should be between 0.8 mm and 1.2 mm. Thinner than 0.8 mm and the piece dents in a handbag; thicker than 1.2 mm and the weight climbs without the client noticing. Stone seats are cut into the wax before casting, not after. For a 5 mm round cabochon we carve a seat at 4.7 mm so the bezel can fold over the stone cleanly. We use the IGI diamond and gem grading reference only when the stone the client supplies needs identification; for most pendants the stone is a small accent and the design carries the piece. If the pendant will hold a diamond, our notes on choosing a centre stone for a custom piece set realistic expectations.
Chain, finish, and pricing
The pendant and the chain are sold together, not assumed. A 0.8 mm cable chain suits a 3 g pendant; a 2 mm Figaro chain suits a 15 g statement piece. We quote the chain separately so the client can step up or down. A hand-carved wax pendant in 14k gold with one small accent stone lands between 400 and 900; a pave version runs higher. Trade clients: our OEM pendant programme supplies raw castings in the most popular leaf, heart, and oval silhouettes, ready for your own stone setting and branding.
FAQ
Can I supply my own stone for the pendant?
Yes. Send it in advance and we design the seat around its actual dimensions, not a catalogue size. Loose stones smaller than 3 mm are usually better bezel-set, not prong-set.
How long does the sketch-to-wax stage take?
Two to three weeks. That includes two design rounds and one physical wax or resin proof. Casting and setting add another two to three weeks on top.
Will the pendant turn my neck green?
Only if it is plated base metal. Solid 14k, 18k, or sterling silver will not. We disclose the alloy on every piece and follow the FTC jewelry guide (16 CFR Part 23) marking rules so the piece is honestly labelled.
Can the bail be opened later to change the chain?
A closed bail cannot. If you want the option to swap chains, choose an open bail or a removable jump-ring design, which we flag at the wax stage.
Napkin drawing, favourite photo, or inherited stone? Send it over. We will redraw it at 1:1, carve a wax proof you can hold, and quote the casting, chain, and setting in one written number. Trade buyers: ask for our blank-cast pendant catalogue for private-label orders.
