"Why is the bespoke ring twice the price of the one on the website?" is the question every atelier hears. The short answer is that the catalogue price is a finished good amortised over thousands of units; the bespoke price is a one-off commission built around a single client. The honest job of a transparent quote is to show exactly where the money goes, so the client is not surprised by a line item on day four. Here is our line-by-line.
Design labour: the first line, not a freebie
Design labour covers two sketch rounds, the wax or CAD proof, and one set of revisions. It is a flat fee, usually 60 to 150, credited back against the final piece if the client proceeds. Some ateliers fold it into the total; we break it out because it is the step most clients underestimate. For the wider picture of how the process runs, our sketch-to-setting guide shows the same gates.
Metal and casting
Metal is priced by weight plus the casting fee. A 14k solitaire band uses roughly 3 to 5 g of gold; a heavy signet uses 12 to 18 g. Casting, burnout, and finishing labour are bundled into one line. We disclose the alloy and weight on every invoice, and we follow the karat system and the FTC 16 CFR Part 23 marking rules so the piece is honestly stamped. If you want the broader comparison, our overall cost breakdown shows how this line sits in the total.
Stones and setting labour
Loose stones are quoted separately, with any certificate or treatment disclosure attached. Setting labour depends on the number of stones and the method: a single prong setting is a flat fee; a pave with 30 melee stones is charged per stone. We never hide the stone inside the labour line, because the client should be able to swap to a lab-grown or a different supplier without renegotiating the whole commission. For stone choice, our gemstone choice guide explains what drives the price.
Hallmarking, polishing, and packing
Hallmarking (where legally required), final polish, anti-tarnish packaging, and insured shipping are included in our standard quote, not added at the end. The one line we sometimes flag is engraving, because clients often add a date or handwriting after the wax proof. We quote that as an optional add-on, never as a surprise. If the piece is a gift, our notes on gifting bespoke experience vouchers show how the packaging and timing lines work together.
The extras we flag before you sign
Three things move the price after the quote: a third design revision (we include two), a sourced stone we have to procure specially (adds one to three weeks and the supplier premium), and a rush surcharge for orders inside ten working days. We put all three in writing on the quote so the client can choose. Trade and retail partners: our wholesale pricing is tiered by volume and includes the same design, casting, and setting lines, with a separate OEM tooling fee for one-off production moulds.
The line clients ask about least is waste. Casting sprues, cut-off prongs, and failed wax shells are not re-melted into the next client's ring, because re-used gold carries a higher risk of porosity in thin bands. We account for that material loss inside the metal line, not as a surprise surcharge at the end. If you have compared quotes from a local jeweller that look 30 percent lower, the difference is often that they fold waste, hallmarking, and insured shipping into a single line we break out on purpose. For the broader number, our one-of-a-kind engagement ring guide shows how the same line items stack on a specific commission.
FAQ
Is the design fee refundable if I walk away?
The design fee covers the sketches and proof, so it is non-refundable once the wax is carved. It is credited in full against the final piece if you proceed.
Can I supply my own stone to reduce the price?
Yes. We deduct the stone line from the quote and design the seat around the stone you send. We document it under magnification before work begins.
Why is your quote higher than a local jeweller's?
Compare the line items. A lower quote may fold design, hallmarking, or insurance into a single number, or it may use plated or lower-karat alloy. We send the line-by-line so the comparison is fair.
Do you offer payment plans?
Yes. We split the balance into design, mid-production, and delivery milestones, with the first payment at sketch approval and the final before insured shipping.
Want a transparent, line-by-line quote for a custom piece? Send the reference photo, budget range, and wear occasion. We will reply with the design, metal, stone, setting, and optional engraving lines in one written number. Retail and wholesale partners: ask for our tiered OEM price list for private-label production.
